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Jepara is a small town
of about 100,000 and a district of slightly under
a million on the north coast of Java, two hours by
car from the provincial capital Semarang. Unlike Medan
it has only recently become urban and is not an ethnic
or religious mixing pot. Nearly 98% of Jeparans are
from one ethnic group, the Javanese, and more than
95% are Muslim.
Jepara was an important port
kingdom in the mid-sixteenth century, once ruled by
Queen Kalinyamat. The colonial Dutch burned it to
the ground twice in one year for breaking their trade
monopoly. It was also the home of Kartini the Javanese
aristocrat whose life and letters advanced educational
opportunities for Indonesian women in the early twentieth
century.
Jepara exports more than 300
million US dollars of its famous handcrafted furniture
each year. It makes antique reproduction, garden and
other furniture in any design the customer wants.
There is also a substantial domestic furniture industry.
Together they employ more than 80,000 Jeparans. Many
more are employed in allied industries. Most work
in more than 2000 overwhelmingly Javanese-owned small
and medium enterprises in Jepara's villages. Even
most of the largest firms are indigenous or European.
Elsewhere in Indonesia, Chinese Indonesian firms dominate
manufacturing.
Jepara's economy has boomed. For several kilometres
the road into town is full of furniture factories,
showrooms and warehouses. There has been a related
growth in public transport, in packing and shipping
services, in upholstering, banks, and public buildings.
Internet and telephone kiosks, good hotels and 'modern'
restaurants cater mainly to foreigners and the new
commercial elite.
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In 1971 Jepara was one of the
poorest districts in Central Java. Now it is near
the top in regional per capita income. It has more
registered motor vehicles than any other locality
in Central Java except the provincial capital. Another
sign of local prosperity is the pilgrimage to Mecca,
which costs more than US$3000. This year nearly 2500
Jeparans went, up from about 900 the year before.
In both years Jepara sent more pilgrims than any other
locality in Indonesia. Local government revenue is
so strong that in the midst of Indonesia's 1998 economic
crisis Jepara's local government could build a large
two-storey office building without borrowing.
Jepara's recent wealth is also
visible in new retail shops, department stores, motor
vehicle dealers and even a super-market. While inequality
seems to have grown, there is anecdotal evidence that
the growth in employment in the furniture industry
has helped to push up other rural wages.
In the Reform era, Jepara
went through the New Order relatively well, with a
strengthened economy and a society able to place limits
on the state and a local state made more responsive.
So how is Jepara managing in the Reform Era?
The local economy has remained strong with the rupiah
value of furniture exports soaring. Many Jeparans
now believe that they can do well at business even
in adverse conditions. The worrying cloud on the horizon
is the question of sustainability. Can the forests
of Indonesia provide quality timber in ever increasing
amounts?
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